Tuesday, July 2, 2013

Pictures of Bukhara

2013/14 Departures 


Thanks for dropping by.

And recently, there are five of us who went on a recent trip to Uzbekistan, and Central Asia. Our itinerary covers the ancient Silk Route cities of Tashkent, Bukhara and Samarkand, as well as parts of Tajikistan, Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan. Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan are both very mountainous and they are worth a trip on their own for trekking. I plan to go back to Kyrgyzstan for trekking perhaps in three years time.

History of Bukhara

When the Arabs arrived in 709, they discovered a prosperous trading centre here. They succeeded in spreading the Islam religion, though they faced with constant revolts. Then it became the capital of the Samanid state in the 9th and 10th centuries. Bukhoro-i-sharif (Noble Bukhara) , the 'Pillar of Islam' - blossomed as Central Asia's religious and cultural heart, and simultaneously brightened with the Persian love of the arts. It was said that 'while elsewhere light radiates from heaven onto the land, in holy Bukhara t radiates upward to illuminate heaven'.

After two centuries under the smaller Qarakhan and Karakitay Dynasties, Bukhara came under attack by Genghis Khan in 1220, and in 1370, it fell under the shadow of Timur's Samarkand.
Then, it prospered again under the Uzbek Shaybanids, who made it their capital under the Bukhara khanate.
Along with the smaller Shaybanid cousin, the Khiva khanate, it eventually embraced most of present-day Central Asia and parts of Iran and Afghanistan. The old town's present appearance owes most to that period, especially to the greatest of the Shaybanid khans, Abdullah II (ruled 1583-98).

The centre of Shaybanid Bukhara was a vast marketplace with dozens of specialist bazars and caravanserais, over 100 medressas (with 10,000 students) and more thna 300 mosques.

The Silk Road's decline slowly pushed Bukhara out of the mainstream during the Astrakhanid Dynasty. Then in 1753, Muhammad Rahim, the local deputy of the Persian ruler, proclaimed himself emir, and thus founding the Manghit Dynasty, which continued to rule until the Bolsheviks came.\

In 1868, Russian troops under General Kaufman occupied Samarkand (under Emir Muzaffar Khan's domain at that time), and soon Bukhara surrendered, and became a protectorate of the tsar, with the emirs still nominally in charge. The Trans-Caspian Railway arrived in 1888, but at Emir Abdallabad Khan's request the train station was built at 15 km away at Kagan, then called new Bukhara.

Then, on 2nd September 1920, General Mikhail Frunze converged on Bukhara, and stormed the Ark and captured Bukhara. Bukhara won a short 'independence' as the Bukhara People's Republic, but after showing rather too much interest in Pan-Turkism, it was absorbed in 1924 into the newly created Uzbek USSR.
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Below, you will find some of the pictures that I had taken while in Bukhara. We flew to Tashkent via Kuala Lumpur from Singapore. Then from Tashkent, we took an evening flight to Bukhara.



The locals were selling local bread early in the morning. As we travelled in the month of June, which is summer, the temperature was really high, and on certain days, reaching a high of 40 degrees. September would be a month with lower temperature. Trekking is great in Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan, with the season starting from May till September.



 
Kulkedash Medressa

I really love the intricate carvings on the door, and my guide told us that it would normally take about 4 months to complete a great masterpiece.




I woke up early and went for my morning walk by myself, and chanced upon this lovely B&B. The picture is taken in the courtyard, and the owner was very friendly and she allowed me to take the shot.




                                 Nadir Divanbegi Khanaka, located to the west of the Labi-Hauz.






The oldest Mulberry Tree, which is located next to the pond, opposite the famous Labi-Hauz, which we came back for dinner in the evening.


Oh, I hated those scaffolding.. But, what could I do. It is just the timing. This is the Mir-i-Arab Medressa (religious school). Such beautiful domes that we saw over different parts of Uzbekistan.


The Kalyan Mineret, and probably the tallest building in Central Asia after its completion by Arslan Khan, the Qarakhan ruler in 1127. Kalon means 'great' in Tajik. It is 47 metres tall with 10 metres deep foundation. Genghis Khan was so dumbfounded by it, that he ordered it to be spared from destruction when he saw it. It was also used as a beacon and watchtower, and the Manghit emirs threw criminals off it until forbidden to do so by the Russians.

Close up of the Dome. Mir-i-Arab Medressa. This medressa was vnamed after Naqshbandi sheikh from Yemen, who had a strong influence on the Shaybanid ruler - Ubaidullah Khan and financed the original complex.


                                                         Close up of the Kalyan Minaret.

So, five ladies went on this organised trip. And some of them were initially worried about the safety. I heard people saying that it is a dangerous country! But the locals were such friendly people and they often asked us to take pictures together with them. Even when I walked along the street all by myself, I do not feel intimidated in any way.
There were few tourists around, and mainly I met Europeans, from Germany, Slovakia, England, Switzerland, Malaysians. Yes, I heard that in Malaysia , the tours to Uzbekistan is selling well. And I suppose this has to do with the culture and dominant religion.


                                                      Ismail Samani 's Mausoleum

 The entrance to Ismail Samani's Mausoleum, which is located in the Samani Park. This is the town's oldest monument (completed around 905) and one of the most elegant structures in Central Asia. Ismail Samani is the founder of the Samanid Dynasty.








Beautiful souvenir to bring home, and on it you can find the engravings of various attraction and monuments in Bukhara.


 Often, you will find the camel, and the merchants being part of the engraving or other souvenirs. A constant reminder that Bukhara was once a very important Silk Route city in more than 2500 years ago.


 Notice the gold tooth in the lady's mouth. Later, we realised that this is like a fashion statement. Even teenagers have a whole upper row of teeth in gold. I had seen man with the whole lower row of teeth in gold.



The Ark Citadel - the oldest structure in Bukhara. And it was occupied from the 5th century right up to the 1920, when it was bombed by the Red Army. Some of the crumbling walls now are probably less than 300 years old. It is about 75% ruins inside now.



There are only three remaining domed bazars, heavily renovated in Soviet times - Taqi Sarrafon (Moneychangers), Taqi-Telpak Furushon (Cap-Makers) and Taqi-Zargaron (Jewellers) - were among the dozens of specialized bazars in the town.
The above is near the Taqi Sarrafon area.







                                             Watching sunset from the Dolon Restaurant.



                                           Labi-Hauz -  the plaza built around a pool

    
 Shashlyk - choice of chicken, beef, mutton.
I simply love them, and you could find them all over Central Asia.


I enoyed my two nights stay at Bukhara. We stayed at Asia Bukhara Hotel, and was told that this is the most expensive hotel in the old town area. All the main attractions are within 15 minutes walk from the hotel. And it makes it easy for me to go for my early morning walk, to capture the way of life of the people. As we took the evening flight to Bukhara, so the sightseeing of the city in the old town is for the one whole day. With a lovely sunset, and a most unforgettable meal at the Labi-Hauz, I left Bukhara with so much memories of this Silk Route city, and look forward to be back some time in future.

As we explored the bazars, though the locals try to sell us the various souvenirs, but they are very mild, and very much unlike in other parts of Asia, where the locals kept persuading you to buy. We could easily browse and take our time. Do add Uzbekistan on your wish list, and I hope you get to visit this beautiful place before too many tourists start to pack the Old Town, and the bazars.

Check out the trip that I am organising under EU Holidays -
05-18sep Uzbekistan & Kyrgzystan Discovery

Departures for exotic tours - 2013/14

Send me email
olevia@gmail.com

Monday, June 10, 2013

05-18Sep Uzbekistan Kyrgzystan Discovery


This is a lovely discovery trip to Central Asia, visiting the beautiful cities of Samarkand, Bukhara, Shahrisabz, and Tashkent. After that, we fly into Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan and make a trip to the Issyl Kul Lake region. Lush green forests, and mountain scenery.

Min 4 to go for this itinerary.

Special departure - 05-18Sep
Max group size : 20



1 day

5 september

Tashkent Bukhara


Arrive Tashkent, transfer to domestic airport, take morning flight to Bukhara. Arrive Bukhara, excursion.

Overnight

2 day

6 Sept

Bukhara

3 day

7 Sept

Bukhara Samarkand via Shahrisabz

4 day

8 Sept

Samarkand

5 day

9 Sept

Samarkand

6 day

10 Sept

Samarkand Tashkent

7 day

11 Sept

Tashkent

8 day

12 Sept

Tashkent Bishkek

1.   HY 653  T   TH12SEP  TASKUF HK1   1220 1440   320

Lunch and excursion

overnight

9 day

13 Sept

Bishkek Issik kul via Burana Tower

10 day

14 Sept

Issyk Kul Lake – Karakol town via Grigorievskoe gorge

11 day

15 Sept

Karakol – Bishkek (396km)

12 day

16 Sept

Excursion to Ala Archa Natural Park (80 km) Transfer to airport(30 km)

2.   HY 654  T   TH26SEP  KUFTAS HK1   1640 2045   320

13 day

17 Sept

Tashkent free day

14 day

18 Sept

Tashkent departure
 
Olevia Cheong
Will be in Central Asia from 12-26Jun.

Look out for the pictures that I will post when I am back from Central Asia.

(+65) 8112 8393
 

Laya Trek with Thimphu Tshechu 2013


Laya Trek
(Direct Flight to Bhutan - Thu, Sun by DrukAir from Singapore)
All other international clients will have to fly via Delhi, Kathmandu, Bangkok, Kolkata.
Check out the best airfare here at the link below -
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Day 1 Arrive PARO

Arrive Paro by flight. If you fly from Kathmandu to Bhutan, you will be rewarded with one of the most spectacular mountain scenery. From the left side of the plane, Everest, Makalu, Kangchenjunga, three of the world’s highest mountains, are clearly visible. Once you arrive in the Paro Valley, enjoy the splendid views of alpine forests, small monasteries, temples and farmhouses. In Paro, you will find a single road lined with willows, clear mountain streams, and families working in the roadside fields and one of Bhutan’s most impressive Dzongs (fortress monasteries) creates a memorable first impression. Once you touch down at the Paro airport, we will take an hour drive to the capital, Thimphu. (L/D)


Day 2 THIMPHU (Festival 13th-16th September 2013)

Today, you will visit the great Tashichoedzong Palace, which houses the offices of the King and the summer residence of the Je Khenpo, the spiritual head of Bhutan. If those who arrive in Thimphu from the 13th to the 16th of September, you will get to witness the spectacular Thimphu Festival. There are a large number of different dances, subdivided into three categories: those that are designed to drive away evil spirits and those that celebrate the Buddhist faith in its many guises. To be able to join in this annual festival is indeed a most enthralling experience for all. On the weekend, you will be able to visit the local market.  Have a visit to the Traditional School of Arts to see the locals learning the traditional skills of making masks, carving, painting and etc.

 (B/L/D)

DAY 3 DRIVE TO PARO. Begin Trek to SHANA

After breakfast, drive to Paro to the end of the road at Drugyel Dzong (2,530m). If the weather is clear, we could see the distant Chomolhari (7,314m), three days’ walk away. Before setting off on trek, it is worth visiting the old fort, which protected the Paro Valley from Tibetan invasions from the north. Unfortunately, only the outer walls remain, as it was gutted by fire in 1651. Soon, we will start our trek, by following the river for about 3 hours, stopping for lunch by a bridge across the river, next to a chorten. Later, we enter a magnificent rainforest of more open pine forests as we gain height. There are small hamlets on the way, their houses magnificently built in traditional Bhutanese design. Arriving in Shana and passing through the army camp at the entrance of the village, you will see a noticeable change in the style of the houses. The three storey buildings of the lower valley are replaced by single storey houses which retain the traditional system of roof structure, where overlapping coarse planks are held in place by large stones. To reach our camp=site, we cross a cantilever bridge and follow the opposite river bank for 30 minutes. Altitude 2860 m. (B/L/D)


DAY 4 TREK to Soi Thangka

Today is a longer walk, and we start 7 30 am. We continue along the river through a magnificent forest of pine and spruce, mixed with oak, birch, and maple. The autumn colours of the leaves contrasts with the Pale Spanish moss (old man’s beard) festoons many of the trees. We take lunch by the first bridge which crosses the river and follow the right bank for a further two hours to a junction of two valleys, marked by a large chorten. We turn north toward Chomolhari, which is visible at the head of the valley. Our camp at Soi Thangka is only a half an hour’s walk away, beside a purpose-built lodge. These lodges, often in idyllic locations, consist of a simple kitchen and an eating sites in this manner, the Bhutanese Tourism Authority (BTA) manages to keep disturbance of the local environment to  a minimum. (B/L/D)

DAY 5 TREK to Jangothang

Today, we trek to Jangothang, a beautiful grassy meadow beneath the enormous east face of Chomolhari. We pass a small army post at 3600 m and a chorten a little higher and then, leaving the forest behind, we enter more open country and encounter our first yaks. Our way continues through lovely juniper forest, to a tiny hamlet where we take a cooked lunch. As is the case with every meal in Bhutan, chilies are also provided, and we may be able to try the local thomba (beer made from barley), tsampa (roasted flour) or even Tibetan butter tea. Our camp is a little further on, by a ruined dzong (4,040m) beneath the huge east face of Chomolhari. (B/L/D)

DAY 6 REST DAY AT JANGOTHANG

Today is a scheduled rest day, intended to aid everyone’s acclimatization before the crossing of the Nyele La to Lingshi. There are plenty of options for a walk, and one possibility is a hike up the ridge behind the ruined dzong to a grassy summit at approximately 5000m, from where there is an incredible close-up view of Chomolhari. Alternatively, a 2 –hour hike to a lake above camp provides a stunning location for photographs of Jutchu Drake. Green grass grazing yaks, stunning mountain scenery  - it doesn’t come much better than this. For a spectacular view of Jitchu Drake close to camp (even better at sunrise if you can get up sufficiently early), follow the river for 20minutes to a lone house and here the mountain is presented before you. No matter what you choose to do today, the cooks will have had all day to prepare dinner and a veritable banquet will be waiting at the end of the day. (B/L/D)

DAY 7 CROSS NYELE LA TO LINGSHI

One of the longest days of the trek, as we climb to cross the Nyele La to reach Lingshi. We follow the river for a while, crossing on a bridge close to the house at the end of the Valley where Michael Palin met with the Bhutanese composer during the filming of his Himalaya series.  Climbing steeply at first, this path offers views toward Chomolhari and Jitchu Drake which are some of the finest in the trip. We are now along a broad hanging valley to the final steep slopes adorned with prayer flags. From the pass we descend, steeply at first, to follow a long ridge before finally dropping through forests of rhododendron and pine to our camp beside the river. (B/L/D)

DAY 8 TREK TO CHEBISA

Today a shorter day, yet one of the most fascinating. After our breakfast, we climb up to Lingshi Dzong. If the monks allow, we will arrange a guided tour. Please remember to leave a donation on the way out, as the cost of maintaining these old buildings is high. From the dzong, a delighthful path contours the hillside, passing numerous farms. There are good views across the valley to the Basingthang Peaks and we have plenty of time to sit and watch the kestrels (almost identical to the European variety) ‘wind hovering’ above the ridges. After a couple of hours, the path turns a corner and there is a fine view of Tserim Kang, before we descend to Gang Yul (meaning ‘village of the pass’). Set beneath enormous limestone cliffs and dwarfed by the enormous east face of Jitchu Drake, Gang Yul’s situation is one of the most impressive in Bhutan. Home to about 150 people, living in a dozen or so beautifully designed house, this village offers endless photo opportunit8es and it is worth spending some time here – you may even be lucky enough to be invited into a house to try chang and roasted rice. Leaving the village, the path continues along the hillside for another hour to Chebisa, only a few hours from Tibet. Try climbing the hill by the side of the entrance chorten for an even better view of this fairytale setting. There are two parts to the village, with the upper section seeming to be the oldest, consisting of four houses. The architecture in this valley is particularly interesting, with traditional windows, wooden slatted roofs, an assortment of intricately carved ladders, and an ingenious system of insulation which involved packing the roof-spaces with straw and wood. Altitude at Chebisa – 3850m. (B/L/D)

DAY 9 GOBU LA TO SOMOTHANG

From Chebisa, the path gradually climbs steep slopes high above the river to Gobu La at 4405m. Although climbing for most of the morning, this is a lovely walk and there are some excellent views. In this part of Bhutan, bharal (blue sheep) are very commonly sighted. Resting on the pass, watching the eagles soar by is very memorable and it is difficult to leave such a picturesque spot. We take a short walk down through the rhododendron forest to our lunch spot by a stream. In the afternoon, we walk through forest of silver fir, and juniper. Descending to the main river (Shagipasa), the scenery offers some of the finest scenery in Bhutan. From the river, the path contours across the hillside and then climb steeply into a side valley, where we set up camp at a site known as Somothang (3,985m). (B/L/D)


DAY 10 JHARI LA TO ROBLUTHANG

Start early today for the climb up to Jhari La (4720m). The views from the pass are stunning, especially the view of kang CHe Da (7000m). Then proceed to Shinge La, the lowest point of the horizon opposite, which presents daunting prospect, high above the valley. As we descend through more glorious pine forest into Tsharithang, we keep a look out for Takin (small deer) which are quite common in this part of Bhutan. The scenery on this day‘s walk is absolutely breathtaking – it inspired Victor Saunders, one of Britain’s most travelled climbers, to comment that this was the best walking he’d ever done! Next, we cross a river and camp in a very scenic location just half an hour’s walk up the hillside, at a place known as Robluthang. (4200m). (B/L/D)

DAY 11 SHINGE LA TO LIMITHANG

Today, we take a yak trail, to a beautiful hanging valley and soon take the left side of the valley to Shinge La (4900m), the highest point of the trek. The final climb is strenuous. You will see prayer flags fluttering in the wind, and this marks the boundary of the Laya District. Then, we descend a path into the centre of the valley, to a clearing by a huge rock. Continue the descent and you will see a bank of moraine, which is holding back a very picturesque lake. The backdrop to this beautiful valley is Kang Che Da, the Great Tiger Mountain. We camp at Limithang. (4050m). (B/L/D)

DAY 12 TREK TO LAYA

Today, is a beautiful walk, but comes with many ups and downs. We cross  a bridge and follow the left bank of the river on an undulating trail through more forest of spruce and juniper. As we descend, we start to see Spanish moss once again hanging from the trees.The path then gradually climbs above the river and soon we see the first houses on the outskirts of Laya (3750m). The people of this fascinating village are very friendly and they present a most unusual and striking picture, with their pointed hats, hair covered in mustard oil and highly decorative jelwellery. We have the afternoon free to look around Laya or to visit a hillside monastery. Then we camp overnight on one of the village fields. (B/L/D)

DAY 13 TREK TO BALE LA

From Laya, we descend to the Mo Chu to begin our 3-hour walk-out to Punakha. The main path from the village descends to the lowest house, passes through a large entrance chorten and drops down to the river. During the monsoon, from June to August, this valley receives a great deal of rainfall and as a result the jungle is particularly lush and impressive. We pass through an army camp and continue on a trail alongside the Mo Chu (Mother River). Finally, we make a long and gradual uphill trek from the BTC hut at Kuona to our camping site known as Chamsa (3700m) in the forest about an hour below the Bale La. (B/L/D)

DAY 14 BALE LA TO GHASA

A relatively short day, with only an hour’s gradual climb to the Bale La (3800m) which marks the high point of the trek to Gasa. As the mist rises in the late afternoon, it transforms the cliffs and forests of the valley into the appearance of mysterious Chinese wall hangings. Huge banana plants, bamboo and an array of exotic plant life make this part of the trek a botanist’s paradise. We have lunch near GHasa Dozng, which used to control the routes to the religious areas of Lunana and Laya. Its position, high above the Mo Chu, dominates the whole area and if the monks are amenable we will get the chance to look inside this wonderful building. After lunch, we walk for an hour to camp at Gasa Tsachu (hot spring). This is a famous pilgrim site and many people come from all over Bhutan to bathe in these springs. There is a choice of four or five spring-fed pools, and after our long trek it is simply delightful to bathe, drink a few beers and just relax. (2200,) (B/L/D)

DAY 15 TREK TO ROADHEAD, DRIVE TO THIMPHU

After an early start, we continue alongside the Mo Chu for 4 hours to Damji. Once again, although we are heading down the valley there is still some climbing to do to negotiate a major ridge, but after this half-hour ascent the contouring trail is a delight. As the valley becomes more popularted we begin to encounter rice fields, scattered little hamlets and villagers about their work. From Damji, it is a very pleasant 2-hour walk to meet the word which is slowly pushing its way up the Mo Chu Valley and which one day reach Gasa Springs. After lunch, we board our transport and follow the river down to Punakha (1350m), the winter capital of Bhutan for more than 300 years. Punakha Dzong lies at the junction of the Mo (Mother) Chu and Po (father) Chu and , in winter, is home to over 1000monks. After a brief visit to the Dzong we drive to Thimphu on Bhutan’s remarkable east-west highway, which winds its way up to Dorchu La (3050m). The pass is marked by many prayer flags and a large chorten. The road winds its way down from the pass, passing through HOngsto, an ancient village founded in 1525 by the 14th Drukpa hierarchy of Tibet, to arrive at the relatively modern capital of Thimphu.  Overnight in the hotel. (B/L/D)

DAY 16 DRIVE TO PARO, HIKE TO TAKSTANG

After breakfast, we return to Paro and make the hike up to Taktsang Monastery. The Taktsang or ‘Tiger’s Nest’ monastery has a most stunning location, perched improbably on a ledge of a cliff high above the Valley. The monastery was partly destroyed by a fire in 1998 but thanks in part to international aid, is now completely restored to its former magnificence. To reach the monastery involves a return trek of around 4 hours. About half way up, there is a classic viewpoint for Takstang, looking across the gorge to the monastic buildings which clinging, seemingly impossibly, to the cliff wall opposite. There is a small cafĂ© located at this viewpoint and this makes a great rest stop. Overnight in the hotel, and enjoy a great Bhutanese cuisine. (B/L/D)

DAY 17 DEPART PARO

We transfer to the Paro Airport to catch the flight for your onward destination.
Contact Olevia Cheong
(+65) 8112 8393